Here we were, on midday Friday (or evening Friday if tracking our “home time”) and 2000 miles from home. We had done the math when planning this trip and knew it would be ridiculously hard to get home in 2.5 days. So, we made our bosses super happy by taking six days off of work, instead of just a solid week. Even with the extra day, we had some hard driving ahead. The previous driving had some cumulative effects…and we were about to lose all those hours we’d gained through the time changes. We still had some beautiful scenery to get us through the drive, including a view of the Colorado River heading towards the Grand Canyon.
Since we didn’t picnic at Lake Mead, we headed over to Route 66 in Kingman for a bite to eat at Mr. D’z Route 66 Diner. We’ll call it lunch, but time was in flux; we lost an hour going into Arizona by moving to mountain time, but then the state didn’t recognize daylight savings time (but then some reservation lands did follow it). Whatever meal you want to call it, our meal was so good. They made in-house root beer which I had. Thom upped the ante by having a root beer float, which also featured their homemade ice cream. I had a Harley Davidson Dog, which was topped more like a hamburger, including some special sauce. The diner was themed with all your typical Route 66 memorabilia, but we were also there during the Route 66 Centennial celebration. So, we got to watch all sorts of awesome cars drive by while eating.
We thought we’d be able to catch the sunset from our spot for the night, but the sunset was an hour earlier than expected due to the time shenanigans. We enjoyed watching the colors change ahead of us instead, and then we watched the moon rise as the clouds built up.
Our stop for the night was in Winslow AZ. No, we didn’t go to the corner, but we did that on our last big trip…you can go check out those obligatory (but fun) pictures from then. We arrived to La Posada in the pitch black evening, but even so, it was a beautiful property. It was part hotel, part history museum, part art museum, and (still) a train depot. Our room even had a bookshelf with all sorts of old books, so we wound down that night perusing books and reading poetry. Such a sweet moment.
The next morning, we had breakfast in the highly-rated Turquoise Room while watching trains come and go. We got to check the property out a little more and I lamented that we couldn’t stay longer. Nothing new there, I wish I could stay longer and explore more just about everywhere we go. But, at this point in life, we just get snippets of time available to travel. We try to hit the big points, and I always hope to someday circle back and savor things a bit more.
Speaking of circling back, our next stop WAS somewhere we went in the past. We were going past the Petrified Forest National Park (aka the Painted Desert), which we had thoroughly enjoyed a few years back. I think it’s still my favorite NP of all that I’ve been to. It doesn’t translate at all in my pictures, but this place is magical. This is one of those places where you have to get out and let the view soak into you. We didn’t have time to drive the whole route, but we got to see a little of it and stop in the visitor’s center. On my first trip there, I had no idea you could purchase some of the petrified wood. I lamented not getting any, but didn’t want to just order some online…I wanted to get the real thing from a source I trusted to harvest it responsibly and sustainably–the national park. So, I finally have a little piece of petrified wood. :)
As always, I took delight in not just the land, but also in the trains. I can’t really explain my train fascination, but it’s just somehow magical to watch them wind through the land. As we crossed from Arizona to New Mexico, we once again crossed the Continental Divide of the Americas (aka the Great Divide). We first crossed it in Yellowstone, near Old Faithful. This time we were in Thoreau NM…quite ironic since we were reading Thoreau’s poetry just the night before. Seems like I must take a moment to share one of his poems: “Heaven is under our feet as well as over our heads.” We certainly experienced that truth on this trip.
Traveling through New Mexico, we stopped in Santa Fe this time. This stop was so I could see Claudia!! She’s one of those friends that transcend time or location. We’ve been friends since 1995, and she’s one of those people you can never have enough time with. Sadly (for me but great for her), she moved to New Mexico last year. We had a delightful lunch together…with the cherry on top being that the restaurant had those amazing Navajo tacos. Lunch flew by too fast, and soon we had to say our goodbyes. ‘Til next time!
After leaving Route 66 for the interstate, we zipped through the rest of New Mexico, enjoying the last of the unique, desert landscape. Entering Texas, we also entered the land of windmills. Our long lunch meant another night arriving after dark. Thom blessed me with a quick pull-off at sunset just before we entered Texas. After the sunset, we were entertained by the synchronized blinking red lights (as far as the eye could see) of windmill aviation reflection lights. It was a little cool and a little bit spooky.
I hate to say that we smelled our next stop as we approached. I don’t know what was going on in Amarillo TX but it smelled awful. It was an oppressive concentration of cow poo smell. We certainly didn’t recall this experience from coming through here before, but that had been during the day (stopping briefly at Cadillac Ranch), so maybe it was a night thing. We thought we had a really fun stop planned, as we were spending the night at the very touristy Big Texan Motel. It turned out to just be a run down old motel with fun paint outside. The old toilet screeched off and on all night, the air conditioner wheezed and rattled, the bed was most-assuredly the lowest price point mattress available in bulk, and we had the soundtrack of semis on I-40 a mere 100 feet from the door. Maybe don’t pick a hotel by it’s fun online appearance.
We survived the night but certainly weren’t rested. Breakfast saved things a little as we devoured steak and eggs at the adjoining Big Texan Steak Ranch. That place was wildly themed, much like the outside of the motel. Thom remarked that he felt like we were at the Hoop-Dee-Doo-Revue at Disney. I thought it was quite funny that the theming had guns everywhere and we were in Texas of all places, yet there were several signs stating the no patrons were allowed to carry guns on the property (open or concealed). Well, while we were visiting over-the-top places, we topped off gas at the new-to-us Buc-ee’s Amarillo. Then we high-tailed it out of (the still stinky) town.
We were set on making time, so Oklahoma only held one real stop for a picnic at Wes Watkins Reservoir. Fun fact, it was near Zelda Lane (but I didn’t find any triforce pieces). It was a beautiful day, and we mostly had the place to ourselves. We didn’t take advantage of the picnic table since it was surrounded by tall grass…but we also needed to stretch our legs anyway.
Arkansas was all about making time. We’d had a good drive through the Ozarks last time we drove through, but this time was all about making the miles home. It’s a pretty flat landscape along the interstate, but I did enjoy the view going over Lake Dardanelle.
Our last hotel stay was supposed to be an upscale, nice last night on the road. Well, I believe the pictures of this place were from a decade ago and under a different owner. The Hu Hotel in Memphis was a worn out, dirty, disappointing stay. The on-site $22 parking was not on-site and was $37. The $10 breakfast was the typical hotel chain breakfast (that comes free in the typical hotel). The free drink was somehow no good. The rooftop was dirty and tattered…but the nighttime view was nice at least. The best I can say about this stay is that the staff was friendly and the bed was comfortable. It was just such a bummer to end on this note. Should’ve stayed at the Peabody…
Our last stretch home was a southern-style scenic drive. The blue skies in Tennessee reminded us of the classic skies of Montana and Oklahoma. The lush greenery through Mississippi was a stark contrast to the rocky landscape out west. As we crisscrossed the Tennessee River in Alabama, we were reminded of the other big rivers we crossed on the trip (particularly the Ohio, Mississippi, Yellowstone, & Colorado). We did have an amazing last meal in Alabama at a Michelin recommended BBQ restaurant called Salt Smokehouse. It was simply amazing! And last, but definitely not least, we felt at home seeing those rolling Georgia hills and roads that hinted at our memories of the stunning mountains and roads we experienced during the trip. While we spent many days and nights remarking that we could envision just staying wherever we were, it is certainly true that there is no place like home.
It’s almost hard to fathom that in our 10 (plus a little) days, we traveled through 21 states, all four continental time zones (plus the nonsense time stuff in AZ), 9 national parks/monuments, 85 hours of drive time, and over 5200 miles. We experienced so much on this trip: temperature extremes from icy mountain roads to dangerously hot desert trails, valleys and mountains and caves and all the in-betweens, tornado warnings to snow showers to blue skies, the only super volcano on land (that also features hundreds of geysers), the highest concentration of hoodoos in any one place, a modern marvel of sound and visual technology (paired with an amazing concert), and last but certainly not least…an amazing time together with the love of my life.
I can never find a good ending when writing about a journey like this. So, instead, I’ll just quote Rocky: “Amaze Amaze Amaze!!!”
Our departure route was also altered from our original plans, also due to snowy weather. We planned to leave through the south exit, but instead had to go north and then west to get out. Saying goodbye to Wyoming, we entered another section of Montana. We weren’t on the road before long before we crossed over into Idaho. (I sadly don’t have a pic of the Idaho welcome sign because it was covered in stickers, which might have been cool if it wasn’t for the winter sludge remnant all over it.) The drive featured valleys peppered by mountains in the distance with the occasional town thrown in for flavor.
We searched for a local lunch spot along the way and found the oh-so-charming Rusty Lantern in Ucon. Stepping out of the car was a thrill because we had finally reached warmer temps. After spending days in the 20s-30s, it was glorious to step outside into the upper 50s. The restaurant was family-owned, and everyone was friendly. Better yet, the food was amazing. Seems like beef in this part of the country just tastes so much better. I don’t know if it’s fresher (being that there’s a lot of cattle up here) or if they just know how to cook it well.
Time flew by after lunch and soon we were in Utah. We pretty much zipped through the state, and the mountains started getting bigger again. South of Salt Lake City, we veered off the interstate towards the little town of Torrey. Every mountain view you can imagine was part of this drive: snow-capped mountains, lush green mountains, finger-like hills, desert mounds, and stone wall-like mountains streaked with color. Every color of the rainbow was present, and it was particulary beautiful late in the afternoon. I didn’t even try to take a picture; choosing just to soak it up in the moment. Plus, pictures (or at least my pictures) never do justice to these grand vistas–it’s so hard to capture the vastness, the scale, or even the vibrancy of colors. Just before landing for the night, we stopped for dinner at a little make-shift restaurant at a nearby campground. It was pretty unassuming, but served almost gourmet level food. I had a salad that looked like it jumped straight out of the garden, along with smoked chicken that could’ve come from a famous BBQ place. It can be a gamble with local places, but we lucked out twice in one day.
We ended our day at the Skyview Resort, which are glamping domes that are clear on one side so you’re comfortably sleeping under the stars. We’d stayed in something similar on our Grand Canyon trip years back, and it was just the right compromise for us. Thom prefers the comforts of a hotel and I prefer to be immersed in nature. In these domes, you get a comfortable bed and climate control. We had to walk the gravel paths to the bathrooms, so it might have been a little more camping than Thom desires, but it wasn’t a super long walk. After unpacking and setting up, we sat around the communal campfire to have s’mores and visit with all the other travelers. I usually feel like we are a pretty average couple, with typical middle-class jobs living the average suburban life. But I believe our fellow campers thought we were the craziest people they’d ever met. They thought it was crazy that we took a week of to drive to a concert in Vegas (instead of just flying). They couldn’t believe how many miles we’d driven in such a short time and how much we were packing in. However, we all connected–talking about the beauty of our country. We loved sitting by the warm fire and soaking up both nature and comraderie.
I was so wishing for a clear, starry night out in the desert. However, it was somewhat cloudy and the nearly full moon was up bright in the sky. We were able to see a few stars before tucking in for the night. I got up in the middle of the night to see if the skies had cleared, but it was actually more cloudy. I enjoyed the moon with the clouds nonetheless, until the cold sent me back to bed.
Even though we were the last to bed, I was the first up, as I had to see the desert sunrise. There was a pretty good cloudbank, so it took a little longer to come up. I intended to stay past the initial appearance of the sun and watch as the light streaked across the rock formations. However, the cold got me again. I went back to bed to warm up for a half hour before officially starting the day.
After packing up and having a camping breakfast (granola and dried fruits…plus coffee), we hit the road for another busy day. We were only traveling 400 miles, but had three big stops before getting to Vegas. We were set for a trifecta of Utah National Parks: Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, and Zion. On the way to our first stop, we continued our games of “Rock or Bison” or “Shrub or Cow”–it’s funny how far you can see across some of these valleys, and it can take a minute to figure out if the tiny blips on the landscape are animals or not.
Capitol Reef National Park was pretty close by, so we were already camping around the “Red Rocks”. Capitol Reef had some amazing red rock formations, with some fun stand-out features like The Chimney and The Castle. We enjoyed the visitor center and took in the view at Panorama Point. I really found this park to be enchanting, as it had dry canyons creating dynamic views below you while also having beautiful cliffs and formations above. We didn’t go on the driving tour of the park, as we didn’t have the two hours to spare. So, unfortunately, we didn’t see the namesakes of this park–the Capitol Dome rock formation or the Waterpocket Fold (folded rock formations that look like a barrier reef). But the entrance area and the Fruita Region were super cool.
Onward, we took the longer way from Capitol Reef to Bryce Canyon, on Scenic Byway 12. This 100ish mile road was noted as being one of the best scenic drives in the United States. I was a little skeptical about that claim, as we’ve driven some fantastic roads across the country. However, I stand corrected. This was hands-down the best driving road we’ve been on. We climbed up and down through the mountains, going up to 9800 feet at the peak. We went through Slot Canyon and parts of the Dixie National Forest as well as the Escalante region. Some of the roads were merely a path across the top of a ridge, with nothing around you on either side (unless you looked way down). The curves and the switchbacks were grand and sweeping, much of the way. In many sections, it was like our own personal rollercoaster! (Side note: those poles you occasionally see along the road’s edge are snow markers, so you know where the road is during winter. No way on earth would I be on a road like this in winter…trying to stay on the road by watching the poles!!!)
Our next stop was Bryce Canyon National Park. Although only two hours from Capitol Reef, it was a different landscape. There were still the classic canyon views and arches, yet upon a closer look you could see the unique formations in the area–the hoodoos. Bryce has the largest collection of the hoodoos (irregular rock spires) in the world. We traveled the Bryce Amphitheater section of the scenic drive and picniced at Sunset Point. It was nowhere near sunset and we would be nowhere near by at sunset, but considering we love a good sunset, this seemed like the perfect picnic spot for us. We soaked up the sun and just marveled at this spectacular spread of nature’s art. From our vantage point, we could see some of the classic formations: Bryce Point, Inspiration Point, and Thor’s Hammer. We could have stood there all day, as every single hoodoo looked different from the one next to it. It was truly mesmerizing.
We left Bryce and headed towards Zion. We thought the best drives and the best parks were behind us, but we were wrong. We drove through the Red Canyon out of Bryce, and it was a really cool road with some good curves and several rock tunnels.
Out of nowhere, we reached Zion National Park and couldn’t believe our eyes. We were in the land of giants. Thom remarked how it was cosmic in scale…reminding you just how small you are. It truly was a jaw-dropping experience. We wound our way through the park with insane views at every corner. Halfway through, we went through one of the longest tunnels in the United States at over a mile long. Every so often, there would be a “tease” of the grandeur awaiting you with gallery-styled “windows” carved into the rock so you could have periodic glimpses of the canyon. Our stop at the visitor center was brief, as this was definitely the most crowded national park I’ve ever been to. It was cool how many of the museum exhibits and signs were actually outside under small tree canopies, but it didn’t eliminate the obvious feeling of crowding. We didn’t linger long, but did get to see a lovely mule deer on the way out. As we saw the last bit of Zion, we just couldn’t get over how exhilarating it was. It was an unreal day to see so many amazing sights…ones that just seemed to get better and better. We’re beyond blessed!
We’re back at it, with a trip that ChatGPT called “very aggressive but doable”. (Sounded like a challenge to me!) The igniter for this trip was based around my birthday gift from Thom–two tickets to see Phish at The Sphere in Las Vegas. We briefly talked about flying out there and renting a car to tool around the region, but we really do enjoy the long journeys in our own car, Mara.
Once we decided to drive, it was just a matter of deciding what other highlights to hit along the way there and back. Thom was really eager to drive the Iron Mountain Road in South Dakota, but it’s a little iffy to go that far north in late April. However, the Phish concert was set for a Thursday, so we wouldn’t have time to go that route on the way back. While we held off on making lodging reservations yet, we set our tentative plans.
A month out, we committed to our plan. Lodging choices were limited in the northern stretch of the country, as many places are closed for winter until May. However, the central north and northwest had seen a relatively mild winter and things seemed to be warming up. Just a week before the trip, our planned northern stops in South Dakota and Wyoming had even been as warm as the 70s. But then just days before we left, the weather forecasts changed from mild and dry to cold and snow. Well here we go…
So Friday after work, we jumped in the car and drove all the way to Metropolis IL. I don’t even have to tell you our first stop, do I?
The first leg of the trip started with a route we’ve taking tons of times up through Tennessee (since one of my brothers lives near Nashville). We didn’t see any of the classic See Rock City birdhouses, but we did see one billboard for this classic tourist trap featuring their gnomes instead of the old classic logo. Not sure how I feel about the advertising change, despite my love for gnomes. We enjoyed the drive along the Tennessee River going out of Chattanooga and the Monteagle crossing; both are such beautiful landmarks.
As we headed into Central time and towards Nashville, we were also heading towards severe weather. Thankfully, the storms diminished as we approached and even gave us a little bit of sunset. The drive through Kentucky was mostly uneventful, although a bit foggy here and there and one bout with construction. After traversing four states, we arrived in Superman’s hometown.
Saturday morning we got moving early for our longest plan travel day of the trip. We had hotel breakfast with all the ladies in town for the national quilting convention; it was hard to find a hotel within 50 miles of this Paducah KY convention…it must be quite the event. We didn’t stop to see Superman since we saw him in Metropolis just a few years ago during the solar eclipse. (You should check out that blog to see the giant eclipse glasses Superman was wearing. Such silliness!) Our first stop was to fill up the gas tank and our water cups, which wouldn’t normally be note-worthy except the nearby gas station had all sorts of odd statues around, including what we had to call “Little Foot”.
We started the day with weather very similar to home–mostly sunny and low 80s. We filled the drive time with one of our favorite podcasts, “60 Songs that Explain the 90s”, as or with an audiobook, “Dungeon Crawler Carl”. (If we weren’t chatting, of course.) Illinois featured an array of farms, mostly soybean and corn. Missouri transitioned from farms to rolling hills, with the periodic cool bridge or interesting building. We finally made a stop for lunch to get some Kansas City-Style BBQ (or so we were told, but we weren’t in Kansas City). If you find yourself in Columbia MO, stop at Como–it was an unassuming place in a gas station complex but had great food. *Look really closely and you can see our picture of the Arch this time in St. Louis.
The afternoon brought forth all sorts of odd adventures. We had a Lamborghini pull up and off we went for a spirited stretch of drive together (certainly following the speed limit). After driving into Kansas briefly and then back into Missouri, we stopped for gas at the fun-sounding “trex Mart”. There were no T-Rexes, and no dinosaurs for that matter. Disappointing. I marveled at the old tornado sirens instead. There was an overwhelming smell of gas, and either the ground was wet or there had been a spill (or both?). I headed towards the bathroom only to have a worker tell me the bathrooms were all closed. We were chatting briefly when I realized Thom was very urgently calling my name and telling me we had to go. That seemed awfully impatient until I got in the car, and he explained that a car pulled up next to us with a guy smoking and flicking ashes. We needed to go before the crazy man caused a gas-fueled explosion. Not far from there, we drove past a theme park that didn’t seem close to any big towns (Worlds of Fun). The midwest surely keeps you on your toes with unusual finds.
Safely back on the route, we said goodbye to Missouri and technically went through Iowa (barely long enough to play the whole Slipknot song, “Iowa”). Soon after, we entered Nebraska. Sadly, it was late enough that the Lewis & Clark Visitor Center was already closed. But hey, we got a picture of the replica boat.
As we approached Lincoln, there was a severe storm moving towards us. Tornado warnings were issued in the area we were heading straight towards. There wasn’t really anywhere else to go, so we pushed onward, hoping for the storm’s severity to lessen. Thankfully, the storm’s energy was short-lived and downgraded to a severe thunderstorm. We experienced pouring rain and lots of lighting, eventually tapering off to “just” heavy rain for ahile. The clouds finally diminished some so that we got the barest glimpse of the sun. (Below, those are not mountains in the distance. That’s all lower level clouds!)
Screenshot
After surviving the storm, we finally stopped for dinner in Grand Island (which seems like a funny town name in the middle of the country). We were nearly literally blown away when we stepped out of the car. Although it was only two hours since our last stop, the temperature had dropped from 75 to 52…and was crazy windy! So, we blew into a unique dinner place–Max’s Thunder Road Grill. It wasn’t just a car-themed restaurant, it was also a car-enthusiast museum. They had taken notes from Hard Rock Cafe on how to deck a place out–from the uniformly placed pictures to the un-randomly set antiques/memorabilia and all under carefully chosen lighting. Had a surprisingly good dinner and coffee, and then I found my dream car. Hahaha, we’re gonna need better paying jobs if I’m gonna buy that one!
The drive home was dark. It’s too bad it was cloudy, because I bet this place has great dark skies. Of course, I always have my stars in Mara (since he put in that awesome starlight liner). This was a super long day over five states, with 12 hours drive time but about 15 hours actual time. Maybe we found where our actual daily drive limit is. Like, we were so tired that I swear I saw three bridges in a row say Beaver Creek. And then Thom was super spooked by an unexpected large shadow of a bridge in the middle of nowhere. It turns out, that this was The Great Platte River Road Archway Monument. Probably would be pretty interesting if we had come through during the day. But alas, it was very much night. We finally made it to the hotel and fell right in bed.
Hemingway said, “The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong at the broken places.” I could certainly feel that first part after losing my mama. Life had unraveled for me during her illness, as every day for a few month’s felt like a rollercoaster. She would be good for a short while, insisting on taking care of everyone else despite not feeling well. Then she would end up in the hospital, weak but hopeful. Mama was the next strongest person I knew (only topped by her mother, who passed too soon as well). So suffice it to say, when she rapidly declined in October, I wasn’t prepared for her passing. My whole world felt like it shattered when I witnessed her last breath.
I know the depth of my grief was hard on everyone around me, especially Thom. Bless him–he did everything he could think of to help. If I needed to be alone and write, he let me be. If I had a rough day, he’d whisk me off to watch a sunset. Eventually, he pushed for us to get away for a week. We had originally planned to take a road trip to Key West in the fall of 2024, but it was pushed back several times because of my mom’s failing health. Mama was gone and spring was on the way, so there was no time like the present. The trip was a chance to get away and process my loss, but also an opportunity to celebrate our 30th anniversary a few months early. Thom was gently reminding me that the best way to get out of the darkness is to look towards the light.
Striking out early on a Saturday morning, we headed towards Malabar FL. There wasn’t a lot of excitement on this drive, unless you count being excited that we made it through Atlanta with no traffic delays. Of course, we had obligatory stops at Buc-ee’s and (later on) at the Florida Welcome Center. There’s just something magical about seeing the palm trees, getting free juice, and grabbing an enticing array of brochures you definitely don’t need. And, hey–this time we got a rare Florida map that still notates the Gulf of Mexico! We had a good lunch in St. Augustine at Taps Bar & Grill…then, you guessed it, a stop at Buc-ee’s.
We ended the day in Malabar to stay with our friends, Chris & Shelby Muse, at their amazing house along the eastern coast of Florida. They have such a cool place, living on lots of land that used to be a plant nursery. We stretched our legs while wandering the land, mesmerized by the pond, turtles, fish (including koi and tilapia), birds, flowers, plant relics, and animal tracks. We had dinner from a pub in nearby Melbourne and retreated to their back porch to catch up, watch the stars come out, and wait to see that night’s SpaceX launch. (Thom had never seen a launch and the Muse house is super close to the launch site.) The launch was sadly cancelled, but the time together was blissful.
On Sunday, we woke up extra tired between the late night and losing an hour to the time change. After a lingering breakfast and southern goodbyes, we got back on the road going south. Our first stop was Everglades National Park at the Shark Valley Visitor Center. We had quite the wait getting in (due to the recent National Park staffing cuts nationwide). But, the canal and thicket along the entrance road was filled with life, so even the wait was enjoyable.
After learning about the Everglades, we went to a nearby tourist trap, Coopertown Airboat. Neither of us had ever been on an airboat, so cruising through the Everglades on one seemed like the perfect way to spend an afternoon. Let me just say, this was more fun than I even imagined. We careened around corners in search of gators and other wildlife. I had to laugh on the inside a little at the end when folks were talking about how many alligators we saw…like maybe TEN! I think these people would faint if they ever wnt to the Okeefenokee, where the gators outnumber the guests probably 100:1 (and that’s just the ones you see).
After our Everglades adventures, we ended the day in the little town of Homestead. It was relatively close to Miami but felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. We had a delicious seafood feast in a nearby restaurant. On the outside, it looked like an old Taco Bell building. On the inside, it was decked out with murals and art knick-knacks. Don’t judge a place by it’s cover!
Monday morning was an early start, so we could fully enjoy the drive all the way to Key West. Our first stop was Biscayne National Park. We enjoyed the visitor center museum and films, learning a lot about the park and the general area. The trail around the center was simply delightful–right against the water’s edge. I had funny little stalkers on my walk. This lizard scooted along the brush on my left (freezing whenever I stopped). The bird flew and landed periodically just ahead of me on the right. I’m pretty sure he was not to going to follow the rules with that no fishing sign…
Just a few minutes from Biscayne, we were on the Overseas Highway! Many naysayers told us not to bother with this drive. It was noted as long, monotonous, and traffic-ridden. However, I’ve learned over the years to ignore these kind of comments, no matter how much I love the person sharing the advice. We’ve been told not to bother with Niagara Falls (just an overrated waterfall) or the Grand Canyon (just a big ditch)…and we’ve loved both of these places. So, off we went on the 113-mile road.
The drive was more bridges than land, or so it seemed. I didn’t keep count, but the data says there are 43 islands–most with towns of varying sizes. With 43 islands that means 42 bridges, so we had a fun Douglas Adams-themed discussion about that! Key Largo (the first real town) was, in fact, very touristy and traffic-packed. I wonder if some folks only make it that far, assume the whole road is like that, and turn around. Their loss, as once we cleared Key Largo, there were countless gorgeous views. There was occasional traffic, but nothing to match the traffic we have all the time in Atlanta.
We stopped for lunch along the way in Marathon, at a place recommended by DDD (Guy Fieri)–Castaway. I had hoped to try lion fish, but alas it wasn’t in stock that day. Brandon had shared stories from a prior scuba trip where they were searching for lion fish (to help kill this invasive species). I wanted to join the movement and do my part by eating one. Despite that small disappointment, the food was delicious and we got to watch some of the iconic Keys iguanas frolicing around the docks. In talking with our server, we mentioned we were on the lookout for manatees (having never seen them in the wild). She laughed and told us to go outside the back of the restaurant and look in the water. Sure enough, just under a drain off the building, there were three large manatees in the water. They were so fun to watch as they slow-motion jockeyed for position to drink the dripping water.
After lunch, we came upon the Seven Mile Bridge. I got out and walked a mile out on the old bridge that parallels the current bridge. The wind was crazy, and it seemed a storm was pushing in. Nonetheless, I took a few moments to feel the wind on my face, the sun on my back, and to visually soak up all the beauty of life–from birds soaring on the wind to the waves splashing on the bridge columns. Back in the car, we traversed the long bridge and soaked up the beauty. We were also delighted to see the ever-resilient Fred the Tree. He’s a good reminder that life finds a way.
Back on land (for a moment), we had hoped to visit the National Key Deer Refuge and see the tiny deer. Alas, it was closed that day, so on we went towards Key West. As we approached the final island, the previously looming weather made it’s grand entrance with thunder, rain, and wind. The first challenge was to find street parking near the hotel, as most of the hotels don’t include parking and the parking deck was quite a walk from our hotel. We got lucky with an empty spot just a block away, and the storm blew out just as we parked. We checked into the cutest hotel ever–The Bishop Key West. I highly recommend this place for a couples getaway. While only a few blocks from most everything, it felt remote once inside the complex. The rooms were all along the perimeter of the property and the middle was open with two pools, a hot tub, and a pool bar. It was a great home base for our days in Key West.
Not long after checking in, we got the sad news that our sunset dinner boat tour had been cancelled due to the wind. We enjoyed happy hour at the pool while figuring out what to do with our newly-free evening. We managed to land a last minute reservation for the exclusive restaurant, Latitudes. The reservation came with a boat ride over to Sunset Key, where the restaurant is located. Of course, we had to get to the boat first. There were two possibilities: walking about eight blocks or giving the free bus system a whirl. Off we went, a block down from our hotel, to catch the Duval Loop. As with any free transportation, it was not without issue. Over our time at Key West, we not only perfected the system of using the bus, but Thom found a transportation app that tracked the bus and proceeded to teach every baffled tourist how to use it. That’s my IT guy!
As we approached the waterfront, the wind nearly bowled us over. All the boats along the docks were rocking like crazy. There was also a cruise ship still in dock, and we heard some of the passengers talking about how they were staying docked all night because of the high wind. I downed some motion-sickness meds, and we took a wild (but thankfully short) boat ride to get to dinner. It turns out that it was too windy to dock right next to the restaurant. So, they dropped us off on the other side of the small island instead. We definitely worked up an appetite walking all the way to the restaurant! We fully understood why there had been cancellations, but were still glad it allowed us to get a reservation. Latitudes lived up to the hype with great food & atmosphere.
Tuesday morning was to be the highlight of the trip–the proverbial cherry on top. We had reservations to take the Yankee Freedom Ferry over to Dry Tortugas National Park for the day. We packed a day bag and our snorkeling gear and schlepped the five blocks to the docks. Upon arrival, we saw the notice that it was an “Option Day” due to high winds and rough sea. Apparently, we could get a full refund. Of course, I was set to follow the Key West approach to weather: It’ll rain, then it’ll shine.” So we went to check in, and the window clerk laid out all the warnings: Seas with 7-9 foot waves, winds over 20 knots, zero visibility for snorkeling. My heart sunk over the loss of snorkeling, but I was determined we were still going. Plus maybe conditions would improve!? (I understand now, thanks to my scuba-loving boys, that improved winds wouldn’t immediately improve the water visibility…didn’t know that at the time.) When I told the clerk that we were still going, she tried talking us out of it. She bluntly said that those conditions for a 2.5 hour boat ride will have most everyone puking over the edge of the boat. She said we wouldn’t have a good time & would just end up giving the Ferry a bad review. She said we should just come back another day. I agreed we wouldn’t go if we could go another day, but there were no openings in the coming days. She did tell us about going on standby the next day and said they often get at least four standby spots that open up each day, although there was no guarantee. Thom pointed out how I already have motion-sickness issues and I conceded temporary defeat. We resolved to come back the next morning for standby.
We picked up breakfast from a street vendor and went back to the hotel. After breakfast and some hot tub time, we ventured out with a new plan for the day. We took the Conch Train tour and learned all the highlights of the Conch Republic aka Key West. After the tour, we wandered over to Blue Heaven for a delightful lunch. The best part of lunch was the Mile High Key Lime Pie! We wandered a bit after lunch, in search of the Key West Rooster Cemetery, but somehow we couldn’t find it. We found lots of roosters though (including in the trees). The late afternoon brought cocktails around the pool at our hotel.
As the day drew to an end, we headed over to Mallory Square to enjoy vendors, musicians, performance artists, and then the big finale of a Key West sunset. Never in my life have I experienced such a sunset (and y’all know I’m a sunset girl). The masses, tourists and locals alike, pushed up to the water’s edge like they were at a concert trying to get a front row seat. The crowd chanted a countdown to the sunset. And when the sun dropped below the horizon, everyone erupted with clapping and cheers. It was a magical moment for sure.
We headed home after that and ordered cuban sandwiches from the highly-rated Sandy’s Cafe, located inside a laundromat. Yeah, we eat at some crazy places. However, they’ve been around since the 1950s, so you know they’re doing something right. It was both the cheapest and most delicious meal of the entire trip. With full bellies, we hit the hay early so we could be the first people in line for Dry Tortugas the next morning.
At 3:45 in the morning on Wednesday, we packed the bags again and made the walk to the docks again. The roosters (who seem to never sleep) were the only ones making noise, save for one lone motorcyclist going down the road. We were told the line for standby started at 4:30am, but we were there by 4:15am. We weren’t the first ones there, but there was only one couple in line in front of us. By the time the regular passengers started checking in at 7, there were over 30 people waiting behind us in the standby line. We went through the boat and park information meetings and waited patiently to be called for boarding. At 8 o’clock, the ferry manager came out and said, “boat’s full–there are zero standby spots”. I stood there dumbfounded for a moment, as it took a moment for his words to sink in. I must admit that I cried right there on the spot. Not a few inconspicuous tear drops, but a full-on, unstoppable stream of tears. I could blame it on the motion-sickness meds or the lack of sleep…I could blame it on the fact that I was crying often about missing my mama; but it was simply the raw emotion of disappointment. We were leaving the next day, so this dream was over (at least for now).
We went to breakfast and I gave it my all to be positive. I wondered if we should’ve just risked it and gone the day before. There was no point in all that; we just had to move forward. All the emotions were just too overwhelming, and I just had to go take a nap after breakfast. (I had to include a picture of our outrageous breakfast–Key Lime Pie Stuffed French Toast!) After a little rest, we made plans for our last day in paradise. We were able to rebook our sunset snorkel cruise (that had been cancelled the first day). We grabbed some lunch and tooled around the Old Town area, shopping and sightseeing. I felt like some of my DragonCon kindred spirits were in Key West with all the googly eyes on things! We had a late afternoon Key Lime Pie stop with Kermit before boarding our boat.
On the way out, we passed the boat coming back from Dry Tortugas–I did my best to brush that off and not let it get me down. The boat took us out to two spots for snorkeling and we saw so many cool underwater creatures. My phone in a waterproof case didn’t take the best pictures, but it’s what I have. After an hour of combined snorkeling, the boat turned back towards Key West. We had drinks and watched the sun drop lower and lower into the sky. While this sunset didn’t have the same fanfare as Mallory Square, it was still exciting and beautiful. At the last moment of sunset, we were blessed to witness the rare green flash. Everyone cheered and toasted one another, making it another joyous moment in the Keys.
After dinner and walking off the unlimited boat drinks, we had a quick night swim and got packed up for travel the next day. When we left on Thursday, we had to return to one spot for an different photo at the Southernmost Point. Okay, let’s be honest for a minute. This is NOT the southernmost point. Even from just the touristy Southernmost Point, you can see land that is further south. But I digress…we’ll just pretend and have fun. It was comical how many things in that area were the southernmost fill-in-the-blank. Southernmost hotel. Southernmost bar. Southernmost beach. And so on. So, we decided to get in on the action and have the Southernmost Mustang. ;)
Our drive on Thursday, featured all the sights of the prior Overseas Highway but in reverse. We didn’t make any stops, as we were on our way to South Beach, Miami for a tattoo appointment. Long ago, we watched & enjoyed the show “Miami Ink” and had vowed to get tattoos there if we ever found ourselves in Miami. So off we went to Miami Ink (now renamed “Love Hate Tattoos”) to get new ink. We originally talked about doing matching tattoos and decided it needed to reflect our times together driving the curvy roads and watching sunsets. Thom decided to get the Caution-Curvy Road sign. I thought about that and even thought about a play on it (the extra crazy one from “Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure”). In the end, I decided I didn’t really want a road sign on my leg, so we adjusted the plan to have thematically-matching tattoos. I went with a curvy road leading into a mountain sunset.
Thom’s experience was pretty straightforward. He showed them the sign art, and they blew it up to the right size. My experience was a little more comical. I had some art with the road and the mountain and knew the colors I wanted it to be, but I needed the sunset to be added in. I told my artist’s assistant to add in a setting sun between the two mountain tops. She came back with a tiny, flat sun. I said, no, it should be bigger, like when the sun sets. She came back with it only a little less tiny. I further clarified this time, it should be like sunset in the mountains. She shrugged and said she’d never seen a sunset in the mountains. So, she grabbed the artist, and he immediately mocked up a good picture. He laughed and said the sun looks different when it sets over the ocean.
Tattoos complete, we proceeded over to the beachfront. After grabbing some drinks, I ditched Thom in the shade and went for a walk on the beach. With my sun meter filled, we toured Miami on the way to our hotel in the Coconut Grove section of town. There was nothing special about the hotel, but we did set an alarm to get up in the night to go out to see the lunar eclipse. We had the hotel parking lot to ourselves, other than the security guard who wanted to know what we were doing. We didn’t stay for the whole eclipse, as it had been a long day at the end of a busy week…but it was cool to catch a little of it.
Friday morning, we hopped back in the car to start the journey towards home. We decided to drive the Citrus Highway (US 27) to check out middle Florida, and it was pretty cool. There was the all-familiar canal running alongside the road and filled with wildlife. There were all sorts of farms, including some busy with sugar cane harvesting. As lunchtime approached, we took aim for Lake Okeechobee for a scenic picnic spot, and it was all we’d hoped it would be. Our particular stop was at the Canal Point Recreation Area. The lake looked more like an ocean, and we had the place to ourselves most of the time. We lunched to a soundtrack of waves lapping the shore and birds calling out to one another. Before getting back on the road, Thom took a nap in the shady picnic area, and I wandered the shoreline soaking up the sun and listening to the bits of sound carried to me by the wind.
After lunch, we drove The Grade, aka Martin Grade Scenic Highway. This 12-mile drive was beautiful from start to finish. We cut in and out of dense tunnels formed by tree canopies with passing glimpses of orange groves, wetlands, and pastures. This might be the only road where cars were passing us…we had the Mustang in savor-the-view mode.
We ended the day with family in St. Cloud. Tiny & Cory treated us to drinks and dinner (and Kayley joined us!), plus we got to see a SpaceX launch from afar. It was great to catch up with them, and experience a little bit of their local life.
Saturday arrived and it was sadly time to get home. We stopped for lunch with Debbie in the Villages to fill up on oysters and fish. We had a great visit, but eventually had to say our goodbyes and make the long drive through Georgia and the ever-present Atlanta traffic.
All said, our trip clocked in right at 2000 miles. Despite there being zero mountains or curvy roads from Georgia to Key West, we enjoyed the trip thoroughly. It was both hard and good, as I thought of my mama through so much of the trip. There were certainly a fair share of disappointments, but we mostly pivoted well and made the most of things. The only negative is really the same negative as every trip–not enough time. Maybe someday we’ll both have remote-work jobs at the same time, and we’ll just live and work on the road. That’s the dream.
P.S.–I know you thought a blog about Key West that started with a Hemingway quote was surely going to include a visit to the Hemingway House and a picture of a polydactyl cat. Alas, Thom was not so eager to stand in a long line in the sun to walk through an old house (cats or not). I actually got a part-day visit to Key West during my infamous Covid Cruise, and WE did go to the Hemingway House. So, not to disappoint…here’s your six-toed cat…
Once upon a time, I said I would never go out of my way for an eclipse again. I had been so exited leading up to the 2017 eclipse. It was the first time in my life that a total solar eclipse would happen in Georgia and one of the spots for totality was in Sky Valley where my folks have a place. I had fond memories from growing up of partial solar eclipses at school, with our little shoe box to “watch the moon cover the sun”. There were also great times watching lunar eclipses, but a solar eclipse was much more novel, and a total solar eclipse near you was extremely rare.
So, we planned for over a year for the 2017 eclipse. My folks hosted a party, and I took the kids out of school. We packed family and friends onto the property. We had tents, telescopes, and people all over the open field there in Sky Valley. It was a beautiful day as we watched the moon start to cover the sun. Everyone was filled with excitement even to the point of talking about the 2024 eclipse that would be just a few states away. As the sky was getting to a weird dusk-like color, literally minutes before totality, a bank of clouds moved in and covered the eclipse. We prayed, begged, and wished with all our might for that cloud to quickly move. We got some more darkening and some sounds of nightfall (like crickets and such). And then it started getting light again. The field was filled with sighs, tears, bewilderment, and frustration.
Ironically, a friend texted me from the Sky Valley overlook (just a few miles away) with her picture of perfect totality and exclaimed “Wasn’t that amazing?!” And then our clouds rolled away–their task of destroying our joy was complete. I know this highlights my privilege, but I don’t think I’ve ever experienced that level of disappointment. After our dreams that day were crushed, it was hard to be excited about any future eclipse.
Photo Courtesy of Brittany Mitchell
However, after we rolled into 2023, the idea started drawing me back in. I was back and forth about it for a long time. Toward the end of 2023, Lizzy’s boyfriend (now fiancée), Jacob, offered to let me crash at his apartment in Louisville, and the desire to attempt the total eclipse again took full hold. As we got closer to the eclipse date, I started planning and realized that Louisville was not in the path of totality. Jacob was going to have classes on the day of the eclipse, so there was no reason to drive to Louisville. I started looking for the right eclipse spot and realized there were lots of great choices just a few hours from my brother in Nashville. Unfortunately, as we got closer to the eclipse, the weather forecast was looking worse every day. I decided we’d just have to find a location on the fly, based on the weather that day.
Come the weekend before the eclipse, I gave up on the chase. I had been sick for weeks with unexplainable hives that were driving me crazy (and the significant amount of allergy meds made me exhausted). The weather forecast looked bad for anywhere we could drive to. I “knew” it was going to be a disappointing repeat of my last total eclipse experience. Thom took it all in stride and said he would go at the drop of a hat if I changed my mind. All I could see was that we were going to miss work, spend a bunch of money on gas, sit in terrible traffic…and it would all be for nothing.
I guess a tiny part of me still had a glimmer of hope, because early Sunday afternoon, I pulled up the National Weather Service site and saw there was now a forecasted hole in the cloud cover right over Paducah KY, which was in the path of totality.
So, we suddenly jumped into action. We packed, took showers, and had an early dinner with the boys before driving to Nashville. We had a beautiful sunset drive over Monteagle and stopped at my brother’s for the night.
During our Sunday drive, I used my phone and “old-fashioned” maps to hone in on the best potential spots to see the eclipse–looking at all the towns falling in the predicted break in cloud cover, checking mileage, and noting how long totality would last. Early Monday morning, we got up and went into the unknown. We set our sights on Paducah KY, as it was the first town that would be in totality. Paducah was only going to have 1 minute 34 seconds of totality, so we hoped to push further into the zone if time (traffic) allowed. We had two potential “best case scenario” targets: Cape Girardeau MO (4 minutes 6 seconds of totality) or Carbondale IL (4 minutes 8 seconds of totality). They were both about the same drive from Nashville, but were off different expressways once we got past Paducah.
After we got through Nashville’s rush hour, we stopped at Dunkin’ for breakfast (since we don’t eat or drink in the Mustang). That stop (and our later lunch and gas stops) were so different from a normal day. Instead of people just standing in line and keeping to themselves, everyone was talking to each other, sharing excitement about the event, and asking where everyone was from and where they were going for the eclipse. It was electric and alive in such a refreshing way.
Back on the road, we had more traffic than expected. I figured most people would have lodging reservations and would already be in place just hours before the eclipse. However, I think the weather forecast had caused many people to make last minute adjustments. Looking at traffic, Cape Girardeau looked more problematic due to more bridges (which seemed to bring about the worst traffic). Thus, we set our sights on Carbondale and settled into a music podcast interrupted occasionally by GPS alerts stating that there was an “unusual” amount of traffic.
When we finally made it to Paducah, we howled with delight as we knew we were at least in the totality zone. Now the goal was just a matter of getting a longer totality (in an area without cloud cover). We enjoyed several cool bridges in that little stretch of Kentucky.
We crossed over the Ohio River into Illinois and got super excited as every mile was pushing us deeper into the totality zone.
The sky was completely clear above us; I finally started to believe it was going to work out this time. However, we did see clouds in the distance. I got busy on the National Weather Service site and, for a moment, embodied my childhood dream of being a storm chaser. Of course, today I was chasing the anti-storm (aka clear sky). The weather in Carbondale was starting to look iffy and traffic was making that destination improbable anyway. So, I found a new potential spot in Marion IL. They were set for 4 minutes 6 seconds of totality, located right off the interstate, and had lots of shopping center parking lots (for ease of pulling in and setting up without trees). As we pressed forward, we started seeing crowds sprawled out with blankets or chairs at every gas station or restaurant near the interstate. Even the travelers were getting in place, and all eyes were on the first phase of the eclipse. We finally pulled into Marion and chose a field next to a gas station right off the interstate with plenty of room for us and the telescope.
We alternated between watching the partial eclipse through our glasses and fiddling with the telescope. In turned out to be quite the challenge to bring the sun into focus. It seemed so obvious–the sun is huge–but using the solar lens or eclipse glasses meant that you either had complete darkness or the full sun and no in-between. We got it lined up a few times, and that was cool, but it would quickly drop out of view. So we stopped fighting that fight and just enjoyed the eclipse with our glasses. As the moon blocked out more and more of the sun, we got to know the other people around us: a family with young kids that had taken the day off work and school, a retired couple on the way back north after their winter in Florida, a father and high school son enamored with the science of the eclipse, a group of college kids making different memories than the classroom could offer that day, and a group of construction workers on break. We all were bubbling with excitement and anticipation.
Suddenly, the world around us started to change as the moon moved across the last sliver of sun. The light became muted like a mixture between where a cloud covers the sun and when the sun is setting. Birds went from singing to cooing. Crickets started chirping. The street lights came on. Then it became twilight. The traffic all stopped on the interstate. The air got noticeably cooler. The birds went silent. The symphony of crickets crescendoed. And, quite unexpectedly, thousands of bats flew by in three different swarms. We only had a moment to marvel at that strange occurrence because in that moment, the moon completely covered the sun and day turned to night.
I can’t possibly do justice in describing the next four minutes of my life. I’m not sure even a wise old philosopher with a rich vocabulary could truly describe the experience. I feel like this is one of those things that you simply have to experience in order to understand. But I’ll do my best…
I took my glasses off and my jaw literally dropped. There was a twinkling diamond-like light emanating from one edge for a moment and then beautiful light bands from the sun’s corona streaked out around the moon’s perimeter in shimmery movements as if they were dancing. Then it was like God pulled back the veil and opened up the night skies. It was dark enough for long enough that suddenly lots of stars became visible and I could even see a planet near the horizon. Somehow, I wasn’t prepared for the starry night sky to show up and it overwhelmed my soul. Tears streamed down my face at the magnificence of it all. I turned my face toward Thom to tell him that was Venus in the low sky and no words would come out. I laughed and tears of delight streamed down my face as I simply pointed at the sky. The world around us was a dichotomy of eerie silence, non-sensical exclamations from the adults, and exhilarated laughter & cheers from the kids. Thom looked back at me with the same teary eyes and inability to speak. We were totally Consumed by this moment that felt frozen in time.
The sparkly little diamond light started peeking out the opposite side from earlier and, just like that, totality was over. We rejoiced with all our new friends and bubbled over talking about what we saw and how it made us feel. I had taken a few random pictures in hopes something would capture even a tiny bit of what we saw, and it turned out I was the only one managing to capture it. Everyone wanted a copy and it was kind of cool to be able to share with our newfound temporary family. There was none of the expected loss of it being over. There was just amazement over how we had just been changed forever.
Once the eclipse was completely done, we said our goodbyes and headed south. We settled in with the traffic and I had the great idea to stop in Metropolis on the way by. It was a super cute little touristy town with an eclipse party going on. We got a picture with the giant Superman statue (who even had his own super-sized eclipse glasses) and shopped in the Superman museum store. There was live music and people hanging out all over the town…happily oblivious to the nearby traffic we were soon to encounter.
Legs stretched and tourist attraction checked off the list, it was time to get back on the road (hoping traffic had thinned out a little). Turns out, we fell into the worst traffic I’ve ever encountered. And I know quite a bit about terrible traffic: I live in the Atlanta area, I drove home from the middle of totality in 2017, I’ve driven through Panama City in summer, and I’ve driven through Pigeon Forge in the height of fall. This topped all of them. Pulling out my maps, I realized the predicament I had placed us in by going through Metropolis. Heading south out of town had multiple major roads merging together and eventually becoming just one little lane to enter the expressway on one of the few bridges crossing the Ohio River. I had thrown us into a terrible traffic funnel that took over three hours to go less than two miles. I knew there was a reason that I didn’t like DC Comics…
After our escape from Illinois, the road was full but we moved along pretty well all the way back to Nashville (and then home). All in all, we met people from 9 states and saw cars from 29 states (plus Ontario). We drove 800+ miles with over 22 hours of actual drive time between Sunday evening to Tuesday afternoon. I know that “on paper” it makes no sense whatsoever, yet those are exactly the kind of things one should do (at least every once in awhile). What’s the point of living if you aren’t going to get out and experience the absolutely amazing wonders of this world?
Our last night away was in the super-cool Hotel Frederick in Boonville MO. The Kelleys had recommended this as a great hotel and area, as well as a halfway point on a two-day drive from Colorado Springs to Kennesaw. We rolled in pretty late last night, but the Brick Room was still hopping with live music. We had to take off this morning before the adjacent town got moving, but the whole area seemed great for wandering, shopping, and playing. I wish we had an extra day for this Missouri to Georgia stretch for more sight-seeing, but work calls us both back tomorrow.
Our main stop for the day was the Gateway Arch in St. Louis. On a short road trip with the kids in summer 2021, we visited the Arch and rode a river boat down the Mississippi. Thom wasn’t able to join us on that trip, and he didn’t really want to go up in the Arch today, as he hates heights (and had his fill of heights on Pike’s Peak). But, you have to stop and marvel at this 600+ foot tall structure that’s the largest arch in the world. Although it’s known as the Gateway to the West, it is (for us) the gateway back east. I walked poor Thom to death in search of the proper park entrance for the Arch, but we ended up seeing the Federal Reserve building, making me think of dad. We left the Arch before it started raining and stopped at Raising Cane’s for a Father’s Day lunch. :)
We thought about stopping in Metropolis (IL) to see the touristy Superman stuff, but the pouring rain shut that idea down. It’s hard to complain about the weather, as we were blessed with mostly great weather for nine days. We had a few showers here and there, but we’ve seen really bad weather right behind us or right before us yet missed the bad stuff.
We were able to enjoy numerous bridges from Missouri to Kentucky crossing more big rivers, including the Missouri River, Mississippi River, Ohio River, & Tennessee River.
As we rolled into TN, it felt more like home than a road trip. I’ve made the Kennesaw to Nashville/Smyrna drive more times than I can count to see family. If you haven’t driven this path, it really is beautiful. The drive through Monteagle goes over the Cumberland Plateau and then across Nickajack Lake. There are some stunning vistas to enjoy if you’re not the driver. It doesn’t seem nearly as large and the road doesn’t seem dangerous now that I’ve been out west, but it’s still an enjoyable stretch of road. As you come off Monteagle and head towards Chattanooga, you get some great valley views and (my favorite part), you get to follow the curves of the Tennessee River for a bit. As we leave TN and into GA, I definitely feel home already.
I think it could go without saying that I’m glad Thom made this trip happen. We were in a weird place in life with the “baby” graduating high school last spring and launching into adulthood. There have been so many changes in how our day-to-day lives operate now that the kids are all doing their own things. (Speaking of which, yes, I know I need to update my profile on this blog!) Thom and I have embraced driving adventures together this year (around home base), and that’s been really good having something we do, just the two of us. While we’ve had a weekend away together here and there, we haven’t really traveled just the two of us on this scale. We’ve enjoyed this trip all the way from months of planning together to the very last moment of this last day.
All in all, we traveled 15 states, 7 of which I haven’t been to before. We crossed the Continental Divide twice and crossed most of the major rivers in the country. We saw car tags from all the states except Hawaii and Alaska although we stayed at a B&B with folks from Hawaii. We spent over 100 hours in the car, either traveling or sight-seeing. We drove right about 5000 miles over the past 10 days. We laughed over the different GPS warnings across the country (like “roadkill ahead” or “pothole in road”–that last one would go off all the time if people chose that alert in Atlanta). We listened to music spanning many decades, enjoyed hours of podcasts (mainly “A History of Rock Music in 500 Songs”), and connected with one another through great conversations. I got to take pictures and write & Thom got to drive the Mustang. We had nearly all our preconceived notions blown away. We found beauty along many roads (okay, but it’s true that Kansas, while pretty, became monotonous fast). We also met amazing people all along the way. We basically experienced three seasons and an incredible amount of variety in the geology and landscapes. So many moments were beautiful and breathtaking.
It truly was grand–an epic journey with the love of my life. Here’s ’til I travel again.
It was so nice getting to stay two nights in one place, and the “Bed & Brunch” place we stayed at was pretty cool. We stayed in Casita #2 but spent most of our working hours in the common area. They encouraged the communal living space, even more so than a traditional B & B. It also embraced the CO legalization lifestyle, so there was a “munchie bar” 24/7 and hors d’oeuvres at 4:20 every day. The munchies included typical packaged snacks but always also had fruit, warm cookies, and/or homemade danishes and muffins. There was also always french-press teas and coffee. They had a chef managing a huge kitchen that was open to a large bar, table, and living area. As best I could tell, Chef (as everyone called him) was always in the kitchen tending to anyone’s needs as well as being a social director of sorts. Whether it was 8am or midnight, there was always a group hanging out talking, playing games, working on a puzzle, etc. As you can see below, we ate well at this place that felt like a home away from home. If we’re ever out this way again, we would definitely stay here again for a few days.
It was certainly hard to leave, as these last two days are mainly about getting home. We lingered at breakfast too long, so we didn’t make it to Spicin’ Foods in Kansas City before they closed (to get some hot sauces, including Da Bomb–featured on Hot Ones). However, we had some fun along the long drive. We marveled at how quickly the Colorado landscape changed from massive mountains to farmland or prairie. We got to see windmills again and, once in Kansas, saw oil drilling stations peppered throughout the land. We had a delightful picnic at the Kansas welcome area, featuring some fresh cherries right off the tree (from our first B&B in Colorado). I hadn’t made the Kansas/Wizard of Oz connection for some reason until we saw the feature in the rest area. So, of course, I had to get a photo with Dorothy and the gang. (I tried the whole heel clicking thing to get home, but it didn’t work. Must be the shoes…)
Our last adventure of the day was to acquire Kansas City BBQ. The welcome center had recommended Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que, so we headed there. It had a line wrapped around the outside of the building, so we settled in for a wait. After about a half hour (still waiting outside), Thom got an alert that his car was tampered with. So we stepped out of line to go check things (all was fine…so whoever it was had left without damaging anything). We didn’t want to get back in line, so we decided to try one of the suggestions Chef had made: Jack Stack BBQ. This place was a little more elevated, but the food was amazing. It was almost too good, as we still had 90 minutes to drive to our hotel, in the dark due to all the delays of the day. I highly recommend this place if you’re ever in Kansas City.
As we approached this day I got a little worried about Pike’s Peak plans. We had to purchase a time slot in advance, so we had randomly chosen noon. However, the forecast was worse every time I looked at it, and they were calling for snow storms (with 3-5 inches of new snow) up top by noon. So, we decided to go earlier in the day (and just hope they’d let us go in earlier than our slot).
We got up in the morning and the sun was shining-yay! We called the info number, and they said the top third of the mountain was closed for ice and snow showers were expected to start after 10am. Well, we decided to eat breakfast and go anyway about 9:30–hoping the top would be open and it wouldn’t be snowing yet. Things mostly fell into place. They let us in earlier than our ticketed time because it wasn’t too crowded. They had cleared the roads, and it was open all the way to the top (but they told us to go straight up without stops because they couldn’t be sure how long the top would stay open.)
We left Manitou Springs at 6500 feet and worked our way up the mountain. Even going up, it was a bit terrifying albeit exhilarating. We went from partly cloudy 60 degrees all the way up 19 miles to 14,115 feet and mostly heavy clouds at 31 degrees.
The summit was covered by snow–so much so that most of the information plaques were partially buried. They had tunneled out walkways so you could slip and slide to overlooks. We had some of the famous donuts at Pike’s Peak Summit House and enjoyed the visitor center before heading on. There was periodic blowing snow, and the views changed quickly on the overlooks from full clouds to little clear spots peaking through. I had to grab a handful of snow (because I’m an overgrown child) and it was the perfect snow–easy to pack, fluffy when loose, and super sparkly.
The drive down was intimidating before we even started. We had just gone up, so we knew about the many sections with no guardrails, steep drop-offs, and deep descent. However, we felt a little better seeing a Ford Model A and a school bus on the road. (If they can do it, so can we…right?!?) It also helped seeing the snow plow and treatment vehicles continuously running.
Part of the drive down definitely was intense. At first, it was clear. Then some snow blew by. Then thin clouds covered the road. Then thick clouds covered the road. There’s no pulling over or stopping–you’ve just gotta continue forward. Of course, this thick cloud moved in for miles 16 down to 13…which happens to be the most challenging stretch of road. There’s no way you can feel the same intensity through my story because you know (since you’re reading this) that we obviously didn’t drive over the side of the mountain. We didn’t have that certainty at the time.
Despite the few scary moments, it really was a gorgeous ride. I understand how these views inspired the song “America the Beautiful.” Feeling the temperature change (since my window was down for picture taking), watching the sky change, marveling at the change in elevation, having snow blow across my face in mid-June….it was all exhilarating and made me remember how small I am in this big world.
Its hard to write anything after that, but the day did continue. We left the Peak and had lunch at In-N-Out Burger for the first time–cheeseburgers, milkshakes, and animal fries. It was surprisingly great; maybe someday they’ll open some in the east like Whataburger did. If you get a change to visit one out this way, definitely do it, as everything was really fresh and delicious.
After lunch, the skies were darkening and storms were imminent, but we pressed on for the Garden of the Gods. We did the driving tour and the visitor’s center while it drizzled some. I was able to get out at a few spots where there were short walking paths and take pictures of some of the rock formations. I would love to come back here someday and just spend a (nice) day wandering all the trails. Side note: I did see a rattlesnake at one of the rock bases. I didn’t take a pic–I just went the opposite way as fast as possible!
Our stay in Clifton was simply delightful. Right out the back door was a view of the Grand Mesa (which is the largest flat-top mountain in the world) and a view of several other nearby mountains. We were also blessed by eggs benedict for breakfast featuring fresh eggs from the friendly resident chickens.
Our first stop was Black Canyon of the Gunnison. This was highly recommended by my dad (so I don’t ignore all his advice). The park elevation is over 8000 feet and the Gunnison River is over 1800 feet below the top rim. Despite that distance, you can hear the river roaring below. I can only imagine how loud the river is when hiking lower in the canyon. There were lots of birds flying around the canyon, from little purple dippers near the trail to peregrine falcons out patrolling the canyon gorge. I only wish we’d had more time here; I’d love to come back in the future to camp, hike, and see the stars.
As we headed east towards Manitou Springs, we experienced more of the stunning lush mountain views like we witnessed yesterday. Along the way, we encountered construction on Highway 50. For five miles, we experienced a one lane, hard pack gravel road where we got to see the incredible work that goes into roads that endure harsh winters, flooding runoffs, and rock slides that take roads out with one drop. You should’ve seen Thom’s face when we saw the sign that said “pavement ends”–nothing like off-roading with the Mustang.
While we waited our turn for the one lane section, we got to witness the wild Colorado weather. It was a beautiful, sunny day with a few clouds, but then we watched a big cloud in the distance moving our way and you could see it snowing up high, then raining as it moved towards us and then over us. The temperature dropped from 65 to 48 in a matter of minutes and then we got pea-sized hail for a good five minutes before it turned back to rain…and then the cloud was gone. Ah, the poor car today!
Part of the drive took us around Blue Mesa Reservoir, which looked almost like the ocean with the wind blowing the water into whitecaps and waves. We were going to have a picnic lunch in this beautiful stretch, but it was 45 degrees and the wind was howling. Rain was moving back in and blowing sideways. So, we went to McD’s in Gunnison for Happy Meals & Guardian of the Galaxy toys, but sadly we got the old swap-a-roo and ended up with a Scuttle from the new Little Mermaid. Hmph
The drive along Highway 50, aka the Loneliest Road, was beautiful from Black Canyon onward. I was so mesmerized that I didn’t really take many pictures and just stared out the window as the miles ticked by. After the drive around the expansive reservoir, we went over the continental divide and around Monarch Mountain, in all it’s snow-dotted beauty at 11,300 feet. As we approached the Rockies, we turned on Co 285, which ran right between the snowy Sawatch mountain range and the Rocky mountain range. We were surrounded by majestic mountains as far as the eyes could see, before crossing the Rockies.
After we checked into our B&B in Manitou Springs, we headed over to Castle Rock (the picture explains the name of the town). We were able to meet up with our niece that lives in Denver, who we haven’t seen in years. We had a delightful dinner at a quaint home-cooking place called the Castle Cafe.
We left our cute little cabin near the North Rim and hit the road. We drove along the Vermillion Cliffs, through Marble Canyon, across the Colorado River, along Echo Cliffs, and through the Navajo Nation. It was a beautiful ride, especially with the morning fog and the pops of sun as we came out of the canyons.
Our first stop was Monument Valley. It’s so bizarre to see all these individual outcroppings (as opposed to the long canyon walls we’ve been seeing). We only enjoyed the sites around the valley. We didn’t take the 17 mile backcountry drive (gravel and sandy road) as that would be a painful drive for me & the Mustang.
Looking at giant monuments made us hungry, so we found a lunch spot where we could try the much anticipated Navajo taco (aka fry bread taco). This was the best thing I’ve ever eaten! Thom went with a burger in blue corn fry bread with green chili, and it was also delicious. We need fry bread tacos back home!! With full stomachs, we continued onto the next stop.
I don’t often ignore advice my dad gives me, but today I had to go rogue for just a few minutes. We simply had to stop at the tourist trap of the Four Corners. We’ve actually been to all four states (since Monument Valley was in Utah), but that’s not the point. I just can’t resist the cheesy experience of existing in four states at once. And don’t message me about how the lines aren’t quite right…I know all that but choose to be blissfully ignorant.
Next up was a scenic drive through western Colorado. We took the Unaweep Tabeguache Scenic Byway up to Gateway and almost all the way to Clifton, where our B&B was located. The canyon walls, plateaus, mesas, buttes, and spires continued (as we’d seen in New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah). I didn’t realize, before taking this trip, that this whole region was the Colorado Plateau and would have such common features. However, each area had it’s own nuances and beauty. We went through a section with lots of pink mesa, and it was cool to see that the bottom of the clouds were reflecting that pink. We entered a large area called Disappointment Valley, which was such a misnomer–we were surrounded by stunning geology as far as the eye could see! Pretty soon we realized this road was following alongside the curves of the San Miguel River. Turn after turn, we marveled at the sights, watching as the land and walls became more and more lush. We had the road nearly to ourselves, but did have to be careful, as there were cows just hanging out in the road several times. (Side note: we saw cows grazing right on the edge of cliffs. How often does a cow just fall off the cliff???) While there are lots of scenic routes I haven’t taken, I’ve been on quite a few, and I’d have to say this is the most beautiful road I’ve ever traveled.
Standing Strength 